Holly Byrd Miller is a professional makeup artist with over 15 years of makeup artistry experience. She is the owner and lead makeup artist for Makeup By Holly, a full-service makeup artistry business offering services to a diverse and multicultural clientele.
Holly has experience in all categories of makeup including Bridal, Photo Shoots, Runway, Fashion shows and TV. She freelances for Giorgio Armani at Saks Fifth Avenue in Richmond, VA and she's a Certified Makeup Instructor.
One of the most anticipated holidays of the Fall season is Halloween. Although, I don’t typically dress up for Halloween, I do find myself incorporating the colors of Halloween makeup (orange and black) into my applications.Here are a few of my favorite Halloween makeup inspired looks, by some of my favorite celebrity makeup artists, and the products and tutorials to help YOU achieve the looks. Enjoy!
Sometimes the difference between a polished look and a not so polished look is as simple as the shape of the brows. Brows are the frame for the face. Overgrown eyebrows can cast a shadow on the brow bone or between the eyes. Overly tweezed eyebrows can make a face look puffy or protruding, and eyes can look surprised.
When brows are shaped to compliment your face shape, they can make a vast difference in your appearance. To minimize confusion about which brow shape to choose, here are some tips:
Brow shapes to compliment any face shape:
Round face: arch the brows high to make the face appear narrower; start on a line directly above the inside corner of the eye and extend toward the cheekbone.
round face shape
Long face: make the eyebrows almost straight which will create the illusion of a shorter face; don’t extend the eyebrow lines further than the outside corner of the eyes; create a slight arch.
long face shape
Square face: arch the brows high on the ends; begin the lines directly above the corners of the eyes and extend them outward; can create the appearance of an oval face (ideal face shape).
square face shape
Oval face:create soft angled shaped brows.
oval face shape
Heart face: Create rounded brows. The curve of the brow is soft, feminine and attractive and also creates the heart like look of the face.
heart face shape
Diamond face: Soften the angles; this makes the widest portion of the face appear less wide. Curves will soften your look and make the widest portion of your face look less wide.
diamond face shape
To Create an Ideal Eyebrow Shape (Tip: draw 3 lines with a white eyeliner pencil):
1st line: vertical from the inner corner of the eye upward; this is where the eyebrow should begin.
2nd line: drawn at an angle, from the outer corner of the nose to the outer corner of the eye; this is where the eyebrow should end.
3rd line: draw a vertical line from the outer circle of the iris upward; this is where the arch should ideally be located.
After the lines are drawn, tweeze, trim or use a razor to shape the brows.
Conversely, if you have sparse eyebrows (spaces in your eyebrow hairs):
Fill in with hairline strokes using an eyebrow pencil or shadow and apply with angled brush. Note: choose two shades of eyebrow pencil (one close to the color of your hair and another a shade or two lighter, than the darker pencil).
Use the darker pencil to make short hair-like strokes from the beginning of the eyebrow to the arch. After the arch, switch to your lighter pencil.
With soft strokes, finish the ends of the brow; use eyebrow brush to soften the pencil or shadow (to soften any noticeable pencil lines).
Brow pencils- fill in sparse areas: brown and black hair – 1-2 shades lighter; blonde and red heads – 1-2 shades darker; gray hair – 1-2 shades darker.
Concealer has mystified people from inception…what’s the right color? when should it be applied? what’s the difference between concealing and correcting? can concealer be used as a highlighter? can it be used as foundation? There are many different variables that have to be considered before deciding the answers to these questions. I’ve outlined them here, in hopes of clearing up the confusion.
Concealers cover up problem spots (i.e. dark circles). They also serve as color correctors which neutralize unwanted colors in the skin (i.e. hyperpigmentation). You can apply one or the other in most cases.
Pot concealers provide the heaviest coverage. Pencil concealers provide sheer to medium coverage and contain some moisture. Wand concealers are a fluid consistency and can be used as highlighter to brighten and illuminate. Tube/stick concealers provide medium to sheer coverage and may double as foundation.
Tip: Concealer is best removed from the container with a spatula, to minimize bacteria. It is best applied with a concealer brush or sponge. The shelf life is 6-12 months.
Concealer for dark circles
Tip: apply eye cream to the under eye area so the concealer goes on smooth and doesn’t look cakey. Match the concealer to your skin tone (exact match or 1 shade lighter). Apply concealer over the dark area. Blend with ring finger and smooth it into the area. Typically, do not apply foundation on top of the concealer. Set with a translucent powder that matches the concealer. Tip: Never overdo concealer – too much will look rough and add years to your face!
Tip: If you are using concealer as a highlighter, it can be 1-2 shades lighter than your skin tone.
Concealer can be used to color correct the skin. Color correctors target areas of discoloration to balance skin tone. Tip: Only place color corrector exactly where needed.
Color Corrector for dark circles
If you are using a color corrector, for example, and you have a yellow skin tone and dark under eye circles, gently brushing an orange color corrector under the eye area will help neutralize the dark circles and you can add exact match foundation OR exact match concealer on top, as needed. Be careful because adding too much product can lead to quick creasing and caking. Using a color corrector can greatly reduce the amount of product and time it takes to cover discoloration.
Pale skin – choose bisque or light pink color correctors.
Light to Medium skin tones – choose yellow, light peach, lavender and light green color correctors.
Darker skin tones – choose orange or darker peach color correctors.
Ruddy skin (skin that’s red, wind-burned, or Rosacea):apply yellow or green color corrector to the affected areas.
Sallow Skin (skin that has a yellowish hue, i.e. Jaundice):apply purple (mauve) color corrector to the face.
Applying Color Theory to correct discolored areas
Orange neutralizes blue veins and brown spots also known as hyperpigmentation.
Green neutralizes redness in lighter skin tones.
Mauve or light pink brightens and conceals dull skin.
Light yellow corrects under eye circles and purplish/blue discoloration.
Tip: You can make your own color corrector by mixing a lipstick or pigment with your concealer.
There you have it, concealer confusion demystified! Below are some of the best concealers to hit any price point. Go forth and be flawless!
Contributor | Holly Miller Holly Byrd Miller, owner of Makeup By Holly is a 15 year makeup artistry veteran. Located in Richmond, VA her services include Bridal, TV, Runway, Fashion shows and Photo shoots. Holly also freelances for Giorgio Armani and is a Certified Makeup Instructor